Skip to content

Have You Seen the Headlines?

Why Chocolate’s Heavy-Metal Scare Is Only the Tip of the Iceberg 

Image shows Fresh cacao beans at source in Cameroon for COOKO.
COOKO is working to establish what can be controlled at the first mile of cocoa processing, where contamination risk first emerges. Image: Ferdinand van Heerden/COOKO.
Presented by
COOKO
cooko.co

Have you found yourself pausing over recent headlines about chocolate? 

In late 2025, a wave of sensational media coverage swept through France and Belgium following investigative reporting by the French consumer group UFC-Que Choisir. Headlines warning of ‘poisoned pleasures’, heavy metals in chocolate, and potential risks to children circulated widely, raising uncomfortable questions about the safety of one of Europe’s most cherished foods. 

Particularly unsettling was the so-called ‘toxic bio’ paradox: organic and Fairtrade dark chocolates — often perceived as safer and more ethical — were reported in some cases to contain higher levels of cadmium than conventional products. Other stories focused on child exposure, highlighting that a single portion of certain dark chocolates could account for a substantial share of a child’s tolerable daily intake. 

While chocolate became the visible focus of the debate, the underlying issue was far broader. Food safety issues resulting from opaque supply chains have plagued everything from baby formula to olive oil. 

Chocolate has long been perceived as a low-risk food category. Quality discussions have historically focused on flavour, texture, and shelf life rather than chemical contamination. 

That perception is now under strain. 

Across Europe, regulators, laboratories, and manufacturers are confronting a growing reality: a rising proportion of cocoa and chocolate products are failing or narrowly passing contamination thresholds that were once considered peripheral risks. What appears on paper as incremental regulatory tightening is, in practice, exposing deeper structural weaknesses in how cocoa is processed and moved through the value chain. 

The question increasingly being asked, quietly, is whether traditional cocoa logistics can continue to deliver chocolate that is legally compliant in the European Union without fundamental change. 

Contamination is Not a Flavour Problem  

One of the most challenging aspects of contamination in chocolate is that many of the most problematic substances are sensorially invisible. A chocolate bar can taste excellent and still exceed legal limits for contaminants.  

Many of the most consequential contaminants — including heavy metals, mineral oil hydrocarbons, and certain aromatic hydrocarbons — are chemically active but sensorially silent. They do not affect taste, aroma, or processing characteristics, meaning products can appear high-quality while still failing legal food-safety thresholds. 

According to the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA), cocoa and chocolate products are among the largest contributors to dietary cadmium exposure, particularly for children and high consumers (EFSA CONTAM Panel, 2023). At the same time, regulatory attention has intensified around lead, mineral oil hydrocarbons (MOSH/MOAH), pesticide residues, and mycotoxins.  

These contaminants differ in origin and risk profile, but they share a common characteristic: once they enter the cocoa system, they are difficult, or impossible, to remove downstream.  

The Proportionality Of Risk: Where Contaminants Enter  

Understanding contamination requires distinguishing between different substances and the stages at which risk is most pronounced.  

Among the group of heavy metals, cadmium primarily originates from soil uptake, depending on local geochemistry, whereas lead contamination is more closely associated with post-harvest exposure. Studies cited by EFSA and academic research show that lead levels often increase during fermentation, drying and transport due to environmental dust, and contact with contaminated surfaces.  

Mineral oil hydrocarbons (MOSH/MOAH) are rarely linked to agricultural practices. Instead, they are strongly associated with post-harvest logistics. The use of jute sacks treated with batching oils, recycled packaging materials, and lubricants in transport and storage environments has been identified as a major migration pathway, particularly given cocoa’s high fat content.  

Free fatty acids (FFAs), while not a contaminant by definition, are associated with mould activity, particularly during uncontrolled fermentation and drying, or due to insect infestation resulting from poor storage, which also increases the risk of mycotoxins such as Ochratoxin A (OTA).  

Pesticides And The Limits Of Retrospective Traceability  

Pesticide residues remain a compliance concern, particularly as detection limits improve. However, the challenge is not simply whether residues exist, but whether they can be accurately attributed.  

In fragmented supply chains where beans from multiple farmers are fermented, dried, and stored together, retrospective traceability becomes unreliable. When a residue is detected at export or import, it is often impossible to determine when, where, or by whom a substance was applied.  

Why Testing Alone Is No Longer Sufficient  

The industry's response to contamination has largely focused on end-product testing. While testing remains essential, it is inherently reactive. It identifies non-compliance after the risk has already materialised.  

As regulatory thresholds tighten and analytical sensitivity increases, reliance on testing alone leads to rising costs, higher rejection rates, and increased pressure to blend or downgrade material. None of these measures addresses the underlying causes of contamination.  

From Traceability To Controllability At The First Mile  

What is increasingly clear is that compliance depends less on retrospective documentation and more on identifying which risks can realistically be controlled.  

It is important to distinguish between what can be fully controlled and what can only be managed. Certain risks, such as soil-borne cadmium or inappropriate pesticide use, cannot be eliminated through process design alone. However, first-mile data, batch integrity, and early segregation make these risks visible sooner, allowing informed sourcing, blending, or exclusion decisions before compliance is compromised.  

The first mile — fermentation, drying, and early transport — is where most contamination pathways either open or can be closed. At this stage, process design decisions have a disproportionate influence on downstream risk.  

Emerging first-mile traceability and process-monitoring approaches focus on capturing data at the moment risk is introduced. This includes monitoring fermentation and drying performance, handling environments, and material contact points in real time.  

The Role Of Source-Based Process Design  

Source-based processing models, including centralised or controlled fermentation approaches being explored in producing countries such as Cameroon, are increasingly discussed to reduce cumulative contamination risk.  

By limiting open-air exposure, reducing batch mixing, and standardising post-harvest conditions, these systems can materially lower the probability of exceeding limit values for contaminants and residues. At the same time, any remaining impurities can be traced and minimised at their source.  

The Technical Conversation The Industry Can No Longer Avoid  

These issues will be examined in depth at ‘Managing Cocoa Contaminants: Know-How, Monitoring and Mitigation’, a technical workshop taking place during Chocoa 2026 in Amsterdam.  

The session will be led by Dr Frank Heckel, Head of LCI Cologne, together with Dr Silke Elwers, VP of Product Integrity at COOKO. The workshop will focus on the current legal situation and the latest news regarding residues and contaminants in cocoa and chocolate in Europe. It also explains how contamination enters cocoa systems, which risks are controllable, and where current approaches fall short.  


A technical exploration of how COOKO's digitised processing contributes to safer, EUDR-aligned cacao - book your ticket today.

WORKSHOP

Managing Cocoa Contaminants: Know-How, Monitoring and Mitigation 
Thursday, 19 February 2026 
10:00–12:00 
Chocoa 2026
Amsterdam
TICKETS & INFO
HERE


As regulatory scrutiny intensifies, the question facing the chocolate industry is no longer whether contamination matters, but whether existing systems are capable of meeting the standards now being applied.  

Key Cocoa Contaminants and Points of Risk in the Value Chain  

Contaminant

Primary Risk Entry Point

Why Risk Is Introduced

First-Mile Control Leverage

Cadmium (Cd)

Systemic uptake from the soil during cultivation

Naturally occurring in certain soils; absorbed by cocoa trees depending on geochemistry

Limited; requires origin selection, blending strategies, and process segregation

Lead (Pb)

Post-harvest processing

Environmental dust and exhaust fumes adhere to wet beans dried in open-air environments

High; controlled drying environments and reduced open-air exposure

MOSH/MOAH

Transport & storage

Migration from jute bags, lubricants, recycled packaging, truck beds into fat-rich beans

Medium; application of certified jute bags and closed, sealed handling during early stages

Pesticide residues

Cultivation & post-harvest handling

Wrong dosage and application time of wrong pesticides on cocoa farms, Contamination from surfaces during processing, storage and transport

High, applying appropriate farmer training, but depending on full traceability right from the farms

Free Fatty Acids (FFAs)

Mould development

Uncontrolled microbial activity and enzymatic breakdown of cocoa butter

High; by adequate, controlled fermentation, drying, storage and transport

Ochratoxin A (OTA) and other Mycotoxins

Mould development

Mould growth under slow or humid drying conditions

High; rapid, hygienic drying and moisture monitoring

PAH (Polyaromatic Hydrocarbons)

Drying

Smoke exposure during drying over open fires

High; controlled drying without combustion or smoke exposure

Bisphenol A (BPA)

Moulding and downstream processing

Migration from polycarbonate food-contact materials

Low; material substitution, not addressable at origin




Comments

Privacy Policy Cookie Policy