From the sustainable farms of Colombia, the alchemy of cocoa and its transformation into rich, indulgent chocolate is a science that conceals many of its secrets. Now, new research is uncovering some of those microscopic secrets behind your favourite chocolate bar - giving artisan chocolatiers and farmers alike a fresh new perspective.
A team from the University of Nottingham has identified what they call the ‘secret sauce’ of chocolate: a specific blend of microbes that can transform cocoa bean fermentation, unlocking floral, fruity, and citrus tasting notes while reducing bitterness and astringency.

By analysing fermentation processes at farms in Colombia’s cocoa-growing regions of Santander, Huila, and Antioquia, researchers discovered that Antioquia’s microbial community - and resulting temperature and pH patterns - led to a more generic flavour, similar to bulk-production beans from the Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana. In contrast, beans from Santander and Huila delivered refined, fine-flavour notes reminiscent of prized Madagascan cocoa.